Jane Lawson - Milkbar Memories

If you’re a cookbook fanatic, then you’ll no doubt be well aware of the great Jane Lawson. In her latest tales of food (and let’s face it, that’s what is at the heart and soul of all of Jane’s books – a story), she takes us back to the days of sprinklers and ice blocks on a hot day, independence in childhood and a sense of freedom, safety, adventure and a simpler life.

By Raquel Neofit

We had a great laugh reminiscing about our childhood memories and the mischief children of the seventies and eighties could find themselves in on a hot, summer day: our feet burning from the sand as we ran from the water to the local milkbar; a twenty cent coin clutched tightly in our hand, to take our fill of ice-cold milkshakes and frozen ice-blocks, all to find some relief from the scolding sun. Or perhaps a bag of mixed lollies was more up your alley, plucked one-by-one from a wall or a counter of what seemed like hundreds of sugary treats, and dropped into a white paper bag.

Milkbar Memories has the exact effect Jane was hoping it would, the story of her father driving all over town to find the best pie or milkshake, of her and her brother or best friend running to the local milkbar, to come home and share their haul of lollies with their dad.

It evokes childhood memories through food and recipes (albeit much healthier recipes than back then!) of days long gone, perhaps only experienced on the odd family holiday now.

So, grab a copy, harness your own memories from within these pages, and head out into our wonderful world to create new memories with your children and loved ones. You might not stumble upon an old-school milkbar, but you just never know.

One thing is for sure, this book will have you reminiscing about where you came from and what you loved from your childhood – and I bet there are some wonderful milkbar memories in there that you can tell your children. Hopefully with an over- flowing, icy-cold spider (perhaps even with a home-made flavoured syrup?) while the sun shines and the sand burns your bare feet at the seaside this summer... 

Jane, Milkbar Memories has taken me back to the seaside at Rosebud West where I grew up!

That’s the point of it really, and that’s the sort of response I’m getting from most people as well. It does take you back to a time when things were just a little bit easier and a little bit more fun, and we were a lot younger. It takes us back to memories of a happier and more frivolous time.

It makes me look back and think it’s a little sad that it has changed so much – my kids don’t have what we had back then.

Exactly. One of the stories in the book is simply about being able to go up to the shop unescorted – my brother and I would walk on our own up to the shop without any drama. It was safe to do that in those days, your parents let you – not to mention the fact we played in the streets and walked to school on our own. Like all the other kids.

You know, we were able to have that little bit of independence. You could not only walk up to the shops on your own, but decide what you were going to spend your twenty cents on and then you came home and enjoyed it in your own time. Kids just don’t get that these days, and it’s such a small, but important thing.

And the twenty cents! Twenty cents would buy you a whole package of chips from the fish & chip shop!

That’s right! God, don’t get me started! I remember jumping on the local bus and riding a couple of stops to Manly for five cents, and now it’s about five bucks!

What kind of feeling do you get when you’re travelling back down this memory lane? How did it make you feel researching it all?

For me, a huge part of it was my dad. He was the instigator of all this really. He loved his food and was the person who got me interested in eating and cooking in the first place. He hasn’t been with us for about 17 years now – coincidently the anniversary of his death was the same day the book came out – so there’s a little bit of sadness there for me because he was such an important part of those memories. 

But it’s also really beautiful as well because I have those memories of a time when we connected over a gorgeous custard tart or a meat pie or fish and chips. Dad would go out of his way to find the best burger on a Friday night when no one could be stuffed cooking. He was a salesman on the road so he was always sourcing the best cake shops and he would often bring us home a little treat.

I remember when there weren’t any shops open on the weekend, and then when weekend trading eventually started the milkbar was the one place we knew we could go and get something on a hot summer’s day – grab an ice cream or an ice block or a cold drink and then come home and run off the sugar blast under the sprinkler.

Oh and the flavours, say if you go out to get a milkshake today it generally isn’t the same as it used to be – you know, getting that hit of really cold fresh whole milk and a scoop of real ice cream – I wanted to recreate the flavours of my memories for the book. A milkshake might seem like a simple recipe, but by making your own ice cream and syrups, well it takes a little more effort than going to the shop and buying one but the taste is incredible.

No, you’re right – let’s not forget the old stainless steel cup that was freezing cold and dripping with condensation...

Exactly, you can remember that coldness right? It used to freeze your hands and then there was the condensation on the metal when it hit the warm air, it was the overall experience.

It’s a wonderful memory to go back to. After I read your book I went out and bought some of those tall, old-school footed milkshake glasses, and I said to the kids, ‘right, you’re getting a milkshake old-school!’ I topped it with whipped cream and sat there for half an hour with them, chatting and laughing. Generally it’s just: ‘Here’s your drink, off you go’...

Yeah... that’s right! And really, it’s so easy. I think by slowing things down a bit you are spending more quality time with your family. The kids are going to love it of course because they get the stuff that they don’t get to eat all of the time.

My best friend’s kids put post-it notes throughout the whole book and tagged every page with the things they wanted to cook. Their nine-year-old has already cooked the nenish tarts herself, with a little bit of help from mum, and they proudly sent me a photo of them – it was fantastic! By sharing these moments with their mum or dad or grandmother or whoever, they’re really engaging with each other. And, you’re not just cooking together, you’re talking together, you’re connecting, and you get this wonderful opportunity to talk about your childhood as well. I think we just don’t make the time to sit down and do this as much these days.

You mention that the first milkbar that popped up in the thirties was opened by Greek immigrants! How did you discover that info? 

Through a lot of research and talking to people. I went back and looked through some historical documentation, and a lot of it was quite dry, but I just pieced it together to make it easy to read and understand. 

And it was such a Greek pastime wasn’t it? 

Yes! I think Greeks are traditionally really hard-working people who are really into their food. Even just doing something simple like a hamburger, just getting that right – nailing that really excellent burger – was a big deal. 

I had Greek friends whose parents ran milkbars when I was growing up, I have really fond memories of hanging out with them at the milkbar. I always enjoyed talking to them about their own memories of working behind the scenes – peeling the potatoes or stocking the fridges – and I remember how strict the parents were! Most of the kids were made to work in the milkbar. The whole family was involved from a very young age. There was always that really strong work ethic. 

It really was fantastic to share this trip down memory lane with you Jane, but I think we’ve talked as much about me as we have about you! 

That’s what this book is all about, I want people to connect over it and share their stories, I want to hear them! 

You can connect with Jane and share your milkbar memories with her on , and . 

Jane also runs annual cuisine and culture tours to Japan and you can go with her! Head over to www.zenbutours.com for more details.

Article published in Vanilla Magazine Spring 2016 - read the full issue here https://issuu.com/vanilla_magazine/docs/vanilla_magazine_issue_20

www.facebook.com/vanillamag 

Milkbar Memories by Jane Lawson published by Murdoch Books RRP

Recipe's From Jane Lawson's Milkbar Memories

Jane Lawson & Murdoch Books have wonderfully agreed to let us share Jane delicious Hippy Trippy Veggie Burger and Beef Burger with The Lot recipies!

Hippy Trippy Vegie Burger

 MAKES 6

 olive oil, for shallow-frying

6 burger buns, or other flattish buns

Satay sauce (page 229), for drizzling

PATTIES

185 g (6½ oz/1 cup) cooked green lentils

125 g (4½ oz) firm tofu

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) jap or kent pumpkin, peeled, roasted and mashed

185 g (6½ oz/1 cup) cooked brown rice

3 spring onions (scallions), chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1½ teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons curry powder

 Put all the patty ingredients in a food processor and blend to combine well. Season well with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then chill for 1 hour.

To make the salad, use a sharp knife or a potato peeler to slice the cucumbers into ribbons 2 mm (¹⁄₁₆ inch) thick. Combine the vinegar, salt and sugar in a non-metallic bowl and add the cucumber ribbons and onion slices. Set aside for about 30 minutes, or until softened and limp. Drain, then squeeze out the excess liquid. Cover and chill until required; when ready to serve, add the coriander and mint leaves and combine well.

When you’re ready to cook, heat 1.5 cm (⁵⁄₈ inch) of oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium–high heat. When the oil is hot, drop six lots of the pumpkin and lentil mixture, each about 160 g (5¾ oz/²⁄₃ cup), into the pan and smooth out to a 1.5 cm (⁵⁄₈ inch) thickness. Cook for 2–3 minutes on each side, or until golden and hot all the way through. Drain on paper towel.

Meanwhile, toast your burger buns and warm your satay sauce.

To serve, spread a little satay sauce over the bun bases. Top each with a vegie patty, then drizzle with more satay sauce. Top with a handful of the salad, then the burger lids. Chase it all down with a wheatgrass shot, a green smoothie, or the latest health-kick juice that tastes of grass… or not.

 Satay Sauce

MAKES 1 ½ CUPS

1½ tablespoons peanut oil

1 small red onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) root

1 lemongrass stem, white part only, bruised

125 g (4½ oz/½ cup) chopped tinned tomatoes

2 tablespoons Chilli sauce (page 228) or ready-made chilli sauce

400 ml (14 fl oz) tin coconut cream

140 g (5 oz/½ cup) Peanut butter (page 221) or ready-made peanut butter

1 tablespoon brown sugar

3 teaspoons lime juice

2 teaspoons fish sauce

Heat the peanut oil in a large saucepan over medium–high heat. Add the onion and sauté for 10 minutes, or until golden. Add the garlic, ginger and ground spices and stir until fragrant.

Add the coriander root, lemongrass stem, tomatoes, chilli sauce and coconut cream and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes.

Remove the lemongrass, then stir in the peanut butter and sugar. Cook for a further 10 minutes, stirring regularly to stop the mixture sticking. Stir in the lime juice and fish sauce and season to taste with sea salt.

Pour the hot sauce into a sterilised 375 ml (13 fl oz/1½ cup) glass jar or bottle. Screw the lid on tight and turn upside down until completely cool. Store in the fridge and use within 2 weeks. You can also freeze half if you don’t think you will use all the sauce within that time.

 

Beef burger with ‘The Lot’

The name speaks for itself: this burger includes every optional topping available from an authentic, old-school Aussie milkbar. The Lot. It is packed full of flavour and layered with colour and texture. However, feel free to flick the beetroot or pineapple if you aren’t into it. Personally I don’t dig tinned beets at any time,  but I don’t mind the pineapple… even on pizza — don’t hate me!

PSST! This recipe is for a classic burger, but you don’t have to follow it to the letter.
By all means play around with the layers — use minced lamb or pork in your patties,
add pickles, relish, mayo, aïoli or chilli sauce if that floats your boat, change up your cheese choice, use other salad ingredients… you know, make it your own.

Makes 4

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) good-quality minced (ground) beef, with decent marbling

olive oil, for pan-frying

1 small onion, finely sliced

4 pineapple rings, either fresh or tinned in natural syrup (optional)

4 streaky bacon rashers, cut in half

4 small eggs

120 g (4¼ oz) cheese (I like mild cheddar or edam for this burger), sliced 3–4 mm (³⁄₁₆ inch) thick

4 hamburger buns, split in half

softened butter, for spreading

lettuce leaves or shreds

4 slices ripe tomato

4 slices cooked beetroot (beet)

Tomato sauce (page 226) or Barbecue sauce (page 227), for drizzling

Double-crunch hot chips (page 199),  to serve (optional)

Divide the beef into four equal amounts. Lightly compact each into a ball, then flatten each ball between squares
of baking paper until they are about 6 mm (¼ inch) thick and 13 cm (5 inches) in diameter. They may seem large, but will shrink a little on cooking.

Heat a little oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Gently sauté the onion over medium–high heat for 10–12 minutes, or until dark golden. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

If using fresh pineapple slices, give each side a good flash over high heat in the same frying pan until they are hot through and a little charred on the edges. If using tinned pineapple, just quickly warm through on each side. Cover and keep warm.

Meanwhile put the bacon in another non-stick frying pan and cook over medium–high heat until it is as crisp
as you like it, then remove from the pan and keep warm. 

Cook the eggs in the bacon fat, over medium heat, until the whites are set and the yolks are still a little runny — or to your desired doneness. Remove to a warmed plate
and keep warm.

Carefully wash out both frying pans. Heat your grill (broiler) to high so it is ready and waiting for your buns.

Return the clean frying pans to a fairly high heat and brush liberally with oil. When the pans are hot, season the burger patties on one side with fine sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper and cook two patties, seasoned side down, in each pan for about 80 seconds, or until well browned. Season the tops of the patties and flip them
over, then top with the cheese slices and cook for a further 70 seconds. Do be careful not to cook the patties longer, as the beef can very quickly dry out. This timing yields a nice, juicy, flavoursome patty.

While the patties are cooking, pop the cut side of your burger buns under the hot grill until very lightly toasted. Butter the buns and place the bottom halves on your work surface. Top each with a little lettuce, a slice of tomato, slice of beetroot, and pineapple, if using.

As soon as the burger patties are cooked, place them, cheese side up, on top of the pineapple. Divide the sautéed onion over the patties, 

Beef Burger with The Lot from Jane Lawson's Milkbar Memories - Published by Murdoch Books

Hippy Tripy Burger from Jane Lawson's Milkbar Memories